Type 4 hair is often described as coily, kinky or afro hair. Featuring much more texture than the other 3 hair types, type 4 hair is most recognised by its unique tight coils and kinks. Coily hair can range from soft, loose curls to dense, tightly coiled curl patterns, and it is as versatile as it is beautiful.

Type 4 hair has more needs than other hair types, meaning that it usually requires a much more tailored routine to ensure it retains moisture and prevents dryness. If you have type 4 hair, understanding its specific needs is essential for enhancing its natural beauty while keeping it healthy and strong.

Afro and coily hair can be prone to shrinkage, which is where the hair appears shorter in length when it's dry compared to when it is wet. The reason for this is that the tight curls or coils contract as they dry, which pulls the hair up and gives the appearance of reduced length. For people with type 4 hair, especially 4C, shrinkage can make their hair look significantly shorter, even though it can be quite long when stretched out. It’s a normal characteristic of textured hair, and while some people may want to try to reduce the shrinkage of their hair, it’s generally seen as a sign of healthy, hydrated hair because it shows that the hair retains its elasticity.

There are three subtypes of type 4 hair:

• 4A: This subtype is usually characterised by soft, defined curls with a visible S pattern from root to tip. The curls are well-defined and easily recognisable, but they can be prone to shrinkage.
• 4B: Featuring a tighter zigzag curl pattern, 4B hair has less defined curls and can appear fluffier. This type also tends to be drier than 4A so may require more moisturising products.
• 4C: The tightest curl pattern of the type 4 hair subtypes, 4C hair is often densely packed with little to no defined curl pattern. It can be very prone to shrinkage and requires a lot of extra moisture to minimise dryness.

If you're unsure which type you have, follow our guide on How To Determine Your Hair Type to help identify your specific hair type and subtype.

Type 4A Hair

Type 4A hair is known for its soft, defined curls that resemble a well-formed S shape. While this subtype can hold moisture better than other type 4 hair types, it is essential to maintain a hydrating routine to prevent dryness and breakage.

How To Care For Type 4A Hair

It is highly recommended to opt for a sulphate-free shampoo to cleanse without stripping your hair of its natural oils. Look for hydrating shampoos containing natural oils or butters such as castor oil. When choosing a conditioner for type 4 hair, it is best to use a rich, moisturising conditioner that contains ingredients like shea butter or jojoba oil. It is also worth adding an extra boost of moisture by adding a deep conditioning treatment to your weekly hair care routine in order to maintain your hair's moisture and elasticity.

Lightweight creams or curl-defining gels work well for styling this hair type. It is best to try and avoid any heavy products that can weigh down your curls and ruin the definition. Products with ingredients like flaxseed gel or aloe vera can help enhance curl definition without the heaviness, allowing your curls to naturally flourish.

Air drying is the ideal choice for drying type 4A hair to ensure the natural curl pattern is maintained as best as possible. If you need to use a hairdryer, consider using a diffuser attachment, and be sure to switch it to a low-heat setting to preserve your curls and reduce frizz.

You may also want to consider the use of a silk or satin pillowcase or bonnet while sleeping, as the ultra-soft fabrics help to minimise friction which can lead to breakage and frizz.

Type 4B Hair

Type 4B hair features a zigzag pattern, giving it a fluffier appearance with less defined curls. This hair type can be more prone to dryness and requires a specific care regime.

How To Care For Type 4B Hair

4B hair will require a gentle, sulphate-free shampoo that cleanses your hair while retaining moisture. Co-washing (short for conditioner washing) can also be beneficial for this hair type. This is where you wash your hair only with conditioner. This allows the hair to be cleansed of any dirt and product build-up while adding more moisture to the hair than you would get from shampoo. Many conditioners used for co-washing contain nourishing ingredients like oils and butters, which help to hydrate and smooth the hair, ensuring that the hair retains as much moisture as possible during washing. For those who just want a regular conditioner, it is recommended to incorporate deep conditioning treatments into your routine to both hydrate and strengthen your hair. Conditioners that contain ingredients such as coconut oil and avocado oil are rich in moisture and hugely beneficial for afro hair.

Leave-in conditioners or curl creams designed for coily hair are the best choices for styling products to ensure your curls are defined and strong. It will also be a good idea to avoid using any heavy products on your hair as they can lead to build-up and limpness.

4B hair can often experience tangles which can be painful and frustrating, leading to breakage from tugging at the tangles. Using wide-tooth combs or your fingers to detangle your hair when it’s damp and coated with conditioner will be the most effective detangling method for your hair – it is gentle and minimises breakage.

Air-drying is preferable for afro and coily hair, but if you are going to be using heat, a diffuser will help maintain the wave pattern. Make sure to protect your curls as much as possible and always apply a heat protectant .

Type 4C Hair

Type 4C hair is the most tightly coiled of the subtypes, often appearing fluffy and dense with little to no curl definition. This hair type can be very prone to dryness, tangling, and shrinkage.

How To Care For Type 4C Hair

Moisturising shampoos or co-wash conditioners are the most effective choice for washing 4C hair as they make it easier to keep hair clean while maintaining its moisture. Look for shampoos that are free from sulphates and harsh chemicals to minimise any damage to hair and to avoid stripping your hair of its natural oils.

A rich deep conditioner is crucial for 4C hair, making products containing shea butter, honey, or olive oil excellent choices. Incorporating a deep conditioning treatment into your weekly routine to hydrate and restore elasticity will also boost your moisture and leave your curls stronger and healthier.

For 4C hair, heavier styling products like butters can be beneficial for sealing in that moisture. Alternatively, if you prefer a lighter-feeling product, curl creams and styling gels that offer hold and definition without being overly heavy are just as beneficial. Leave-in conditioners and moisturising sprays will also keep your hair hydrated throughout the week in between washes. Hair oils that contain ingredients such as coconut, jojoba or argan oil can help seal moisture effectively.

As with all type 4 subtypes, air-drying is ideal for 4C hair. If you use a hairdryer, apply a heat protectant and use a low heat setting with a diffuser to avoid frizz.

Type 4 Hair Porosity

Type 4 hair often features cuticles that are tightly packed or raised, making it challenging to retain moisture. Incorporating protein treatments into your hair care routine can help strengthen your hair and improve moisture retention.

Caring for type 4 hair requires a personalised approach, and you may have to try out different products before you find the routine that really works for you. Focusing on hydration, moisture retention, and gentle styling practices is key, and by experimenting with different products and routines, you can discover what works best for your unique hair texture.

To find everything you need for your coily and afro hair routine, browse our shampoo’s, conditioners and treatments specifically designed for afro and coily hair types.