When it comes to hair types, you may be surprised to find out that there are at least 12 different hair types, and that’s before you start to factor in the condition of the hair! Knowing what your hair type is, means you can better understand the texture, density and curl pattern if you have one. All of this will enable you to choose products that are the best ones for your hair’s specific needs, and ensure your locks are as luscious and healthy as they can be.
The Importance Of Knowing Your Hair Type
Identifying your hair type can be the make or break of your hair care routine. By understanding the characteristics of your hair, you'll be able to better understand what products will work well for your hair, the best styling tips and routines, and also, quite importantly, which products won't work for your hair, allowing you the save the wasted time and money we've all spent on hair products that don’t end up working for our hair.
Hair Type Chart:
| Hair Type | Sub-Type | What Does This Look Like? |
|---|---|---|
| Type 1: Straight Hair | 1A | Very straight and usually quite thin. This hair type usually lacks volume and can get oily quite easily. |
| 1B | Straight but with more volume and body due to slightly thicker strands. | |
| 1C | Straight with a little bit of a wave to it. Likely to be coarser in texture and prone to frizziness. | |
| Type 2: Wavy Hair | A | Loose, S-shaped waves that is usually fine to medium texture. This hair type is normally easy to style. |
| 2B | More defined waves with a medium texture, this hair type is prone to frizz. | |
| 2C | Thick, coarse waves with frizz and volume. | |
| Type 3: Curly Hair | 3A | Loose, large curls that usually are smoother in texture, but this hair type can be prone to frizz in humid climates. |
| 3B | Springy, coiled curls with a little volume, which can sometimes be quite coarse and frizzy. | |
| 3C | Tight coily curls with a dense, thick texture. | |
| Type 4: Coily/Kinky Hair | 4A | Soft, defined curls that form tight coils. This hair type often has fine to medium thickness. |
| 4B | Coiled curls with little definition that are often densely packed and prone to shrinkage. | |
| 4C | Very tightly coiled curls, often with no defined curl pattern. This hair type is prone to shrinkage and dryness. |
The Four Main Hair Types Explained
The four main hair type groups are type 1, type 2, type 3 and type 4. These four categories primarily determine the curl or wave level within the hair types, with type one being typically the straightest type, and type 4 being the coiled curl type. Within those four hair type categories, there are three sub-types for each primary hair type; A, B and C.
These three sub-types will consider the density, texture and porosity of the hair to further allow you to break down the specific characteristics of your hair, and therefore determine its specific needs. Let's dive a little deeper into each hair type and sub-type to get a better understanding of what these actually mean:
Type 1 Hair – Straight Hair Types
Type 1 hair is characterised as being straight, less volume and often thinner than the other hair types. Type 1 hair is known to become oily quite quickly, and people with this hair type tend to struggle to style volume into their or get it to hold a curl. Type one is broken down into 1A, 1B and 1C;
- Type 1A - Type 1A hair is extremely straight, with no wave or curl at all. It is usually the least voluminous and sometimes appears flat, but it has a naturally high shine due to the even distribution of sebum along the hair shaft. By looking into each sub-type, you can get a better understanding of your hair needs and how to care for type 1 straight hair.
- Type 1B - Type 1B hair is still straight but has a bit more volume and thickness than Type 1A. It may have a very slight bend or wave, but not enough to be considered wavy. This type is also naturally shiny but can hold styles a bit better than Type 1A.
- Type 1C – This hair type is straight but with a bit of a wave or bend, particularly at the ends. It has the most volume and texture of all the Type 1 categories. This type is often resistant to styling and can be frizzier than the other straight hair types.
Type 2 Hair – Wavy Hair Types
Type 2 hair has a natural wave to it, and if you’ve ever described your hair as being ‘not curly but not straight’, it's likely you'll sit somewhere within the type 2 hair category. People with type 2 hair will often experience frizz in humid weather and will likely have hair that is relatively easy to style! By looking into each sub-type, you can get a better understanding of your hair needs and how to care for type 2 wavy hair. Let's look into the breakdown of the Type 2 sub-types;
- Type 2A – 2a hair features loose, tousled waves that form a very subtle S-shape. This hair type is usually quite fine and thin and generally lacks volume meaning it is easy to straighten and style, but this also means heavy products should be avoided as this can weigh the hair down.
- Type 2B – The wave pattern of 2B hair is a more defined s-shaped wave with the thickness of this type resulting in more texture and body than 2A hair. 2B is more prone to frizz so may need more frizz-focused products and careful styling in humid weather.
- Type 2C – This is the most defined wave type within the type 2 hair category. These waves are so defined they can sometimes resemble a loose curl, starting close to the root. This hair type is very prone to frizz and is usually thick and coarse with a mixture of waves and very loose curls within it.
Type 3 Hair – Curly Hair Types
Type 3 hair is normally characterised by curly hair, with curl types ranging from smooth, loose curls, to tighter spiralling curls. By looking into each sub-type, you can get a better understanding of your hair needs and how to care for type 3 curly hair. Let's see what sets one curl apart from another;
- Type 3A – This hair type often features loose but well-defined curls that are frequently described as ‘S-shaped’. The texture is soft and smooth and the curls are usually described as being about the size of a chunky whiteboard marker pen.
- Type 3B – This hair type features slightly tighter curls with a springier, spiral shape that are about the size of a Sharpie pen.
- Type 3C – This hair type is characterised by very tight, cork-screw-like curls, with the coily curls being about the size of a pencil. Usually quite dense and thick, 3C hair has more volume than 3A and 3B, and is also quite prone to shrinkage and frizz.
Type 4 Hair – Coily & Kinky Hair Types
Often called kinky or coily hair, type 4 hair is the most textured category in the hair typing system, known for its density, volume, and shrinkage. It is also the most fragile and prone to dryness, as the natural oils from the scalp have difficulty travelling down the hair shaft. By looking into each sub-type, you can get a better understanding of your hair needs and how to care for type 4 coily hair.
- Type 4A – 4A hair is defined by tight, well-defined coils that form an "S" shape. The curls are typically about the width of a crochet needle with more visible curl definition than the other Type 4 subtypes. While it holds moisture better than other Type 4 subtypes, it is still prone to dryness and frizz.
- Type 4B - Type 4B hair can shrink up to 70-75% of its actual length, making it appear much shorter than it is. It has more of a "Z" shape with sharp angles, rather than a defined curl or coil. The pattern is tighter and less defined than 4A.
- Type 4C – Type 4C hair has the tightest curl pattern with little to no defined curl. The hair often appears more as a mass of tight coils, similar to 4B, but with less definition. It is the most fragile of all hair types and requires the most intensive care to maintain moisture and prevent breakage.
Other factors to consider within hair type
As well as the hair type categories, there are also other things we need to consider about our hair to determine the best hair care routine for us. Every person's hair is different, so there may be a person who has 3B hair who has slightly different haircare needs from another person with 3B hair due to other factors. Some of these factors are broken down below:
Hair Porosity
The porosity of your hair refers to how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture, influenced by how tightly the hair cuticles are packed. Low-porosity hair struggles to absorb moisture, requiring lightweight, water-based products, while high-porosity hair, which absorbs moisture easily but loses it quickly, benefits from heavier, hydrating products.
Meanwhile, medium porosity hair typically responds well to a balanced routine of moisturising and protein treatments. Understanding your hair’s porosity helps you select the right products to maintain healthy, well-moisturised hair.
Hair Density
The density of your hair is the number of hair strands on your scalp and is categorised as thin, medium, or thick. Thin hair tends to appear flat and benefits from volumising products, while thick hair often needs smoothing or anti-frizz products to manage bulk. Medium-density hair strikes a balance, requiring products that maintain volume without adding excess weight. Knowing your hair density can guide you in choosing the right styling and care products to achieve your desired look.
Hair Elasticity
Elasticity measures your hair’s strength and resilience, indicated by how much it can stretch and return to its original shape without breaking. High elasticity signifies healthy, strong hair that can handle styling and manipulation, while low elasticity suggests that hair is more prone to breakage and damage. To improve elasticity, focus on incorporating protein treatments and deep conditioning into your routine, which helps strengthen and restore your hair’s natural flexibility. Understanding elasticity is key to maintaining and improving the health of your hair.
How to figure out which hair type you have
Working out which hair type you have will enable you to work out your hair needs, and then begin to develop a personalised haircare routine. To figure out your hair type, you will need to start by washing your hair with a gentle shampoo and let it air-dry without applying any products, as this will give you the most accurate reading of your hair’s natural characteristics.
Look at the curl pattern your hair naturally dries into; if it dries completely straight with no wave, your hair is likely type 1. If it has a slight wave to it, you likely have type 2 hair. If your hair holds a natural and substantial curl, it will fall into the type 3 category. And finally, if your hair forms tight coils or kinks, it is type 4.
Next you should consider the texture of your individual hair strands. Type 1 and 2 hair tends to be quite soft and more delicate feeling, whereas type 3 and 4 hair is stronger, thicker and more coarse. Determining where on this scale your hair sits, will help you accurately determine your hair type. Next, consider how well your hair absorbs moisture to determine porosity—whether it dries quickly or slowly can indicate low or high porosity.
Feel the thickness of individual strands to gauge density, and gently stretch a strand to check its elasticity, noting how much it stretches before it snaps. Understanding these characteristics will help you pinpoint your exact hair type, guiding you in choosing the most suitable haircare products and routines.
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